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- Skin
- Skin Concerns
- Skin Treatments
Maximize the effectiveness of your derma-roller with targeted treatments.
By
and
Pia Velasco
Pia Velasco
Pia has over a decade of editorial experience, having worked at publications such as Vogue, Good Housekeeping, People en Español, and HelloGiggles.
Byrdie's Editorial Guidelines
Updated on June 10, 2024 06:08PM
Reviewed by
Lucy Chen, MD
Reviewed byLucy Chen, MD
Lucy Chen, MD is a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami, FL. She specializes in Mohs surgery and cutaneous oncology.
Board-Certified Dermatologist
At this point, most skincare enthusiasts know of the many benefits of dermarolling (aka microneedling). Doing so improves the appearance of scars, works immediately and long-term to plump the skin, and helps skincare products better absorb into the skin. The latter is especially true for serums, which are typically recommended as the first product applied onto the skin as they're the most potent, and they're even more effective when used in tandem with your derma-roller.
"The micro-channels created by thederma-roller or micro-needle allow for optimal absorption, allowing the serum to penetrate deeper into the skin and maximizing effectiveness," explains Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Shafer Clinic in New York City. "This is a great way to implement a targeted treatment for those looking to address specific skin concerns such as acne, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, etc. Depending on the ingredients, serums can also expedite the healing process by reducing redness and inflammation caused by micro-needling anddermarolling."
Plus, applying a serum before using a derma-roller is smart as it acts as a buffer between the needles and your skin, says Tiffany Libby, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Brown Dermatology in Rhode Island. As with all things skincare, though, it's not a one-size-fits-all approach. Depending on your skin type and concerns, certain ingredients may be better or worse for you, which is why Dr. Libby and Dr. Engelman weighed in on the best serums to use while dermarolling.
First things first, if you don't have a derma-roller to use with these serums yet, let us put you onto a few of our favorites. One of our current favorite dermarolling tools is the Ora Microneedle Face Roller. It's easy to use and effective. Most importantly, it doesn't make us or our wallets cry when it comes time to repurchase.
Another is Beauty Bioscience GloPro Microneedling Regeneration Tool. This micro-needling tool is expensive, but according to customer (and editor) reviews, it's worth it. It offers all the same amazing skin benefits as a normal derma-roller, except it also includes LED light therapy and vibration stimulation meant to increase cell turnover and skin regeneration. Customer reviews go a little something like this: "This tool does not disappoint. The needles are painless, the tool is super easy to operate and the end result makes my skin feel healthy… even after just the first use. I was finished in about a minute and it was a nice, relaxing step in my beauty routine before winding down for bed. Can't believe it took me this long to own a product like this!"
Our Top Picks
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Skin Concern: Dryness
Stacked Skincare HA Hydrating Serum
When used with the right serum, dermarolling can cure your dry, flaky skin, since the micro-needles push hydration deep into the subsurface layers of the dermis. Dr. Libby recommends using a serum that promotes hydration with ingredients such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, like Stacked Skincare's HA Hydrating Serum. We love a hyaluronic acid-based serum as it can hydrate and plump the skin from the inside out. Seriously, the benefits of hyaluronic acid are vast and varied, which is why it remains so popular.
Byrdie Tip
If dry lips follow you around like a shadow, spread a thin layer around your lips, and you can derma-roll there too. The process works wonders to hydrate and it enlarges your pout by stimulating blood flow to the area.
02of 06
Skin Concern: Hyperpigmentation and Dullness
First Aid Beauty 10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum
Although retinol and vitamin C serums are super-effective and expert-favored ingredients, they may be too harsh when it comes to dermarolling. This is because they're considered "reactive ingredients" and can prove too irritating, especially when paired with needles. So, if you deal with already sensitive and irritated skin, then stay away and opt for another, gentler serum. Your skin will thank you. With that being said, if you struggle with dark spots and hyperpigmentation and you're dead set on using a vitamin C serum, do your research first and avoid those that are formulated with harsh ingredients. Also be sure to patch-test, as you can never be too careful when it comes to the health of your skin. Dr. Libby recommends the First Aid Beauty10% Vitamin C Brightening Serum to treat dark spots and skin dullness, plus it delivers skin barrier-enhancing hydration with squalane which helps lock moisture into skin.
03of 06
Skin Concern: General Aging and Wrinkles
Olay Collagen Peptide 24 Serum
Your skin responds to the micro-injuries caused by dermarolling by producing more elastin and collagen. That means crepey skin is plumped up and fine lines and wrinkles are improved. In other words, just practicing a dermarolling routine will improve your wrinkles in the first place. But that doesn't mean that you can't bolster that routine with an anti-aging serum. Dr. Libby says a serum with peptides and/or retinoids that help target collagen production to minimize signs of skin aging like fine lines and wrinkles are a solid choice for your dermarolling routine. This Olay pick is formulated with high levels of plumping peptides that help to plump up wrinkles and make saggy skin appear youthful and bouncy.
04of 06
Skin Concern: Red and Sensitive Skin
Glo Skin Bio-Renew EGF Drops
Dermarolling isn't exactly calming to sensitive skin, which is why we don't recommend doing it very often. Once a month is typically enough to reap the skin-boosting benefits without going overboard and causing even more redness and irritation. "Glo Skin Beauty’sBio-Renew EGF Dropsare great for any skin type, especially sensitive, to use in conjunction withdermarolling," says Dr, Engelman. "Formulated with vegan epidermal growth factor, hyaluronic acid, and a multi-peptide complex, this reparative serum accelerates skin healing while soothing the barrier and supporting the anti-aging benefits ofdermarolling."
05of 06
Skin Concern: Oiliness and Blemishes
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Say it with us: Never derma-roll over inflamed skin or acne. Doing so will only make things worse, interrupting your skin's natural healing process and possibly spreading the bacteria from your breakouts. That being said if oiliness and blemishes are a concern for you, but you still want in on the micro-needling action, reach for this serum. Gently roll it onto the parts of your skin that are calm and blemish-free. (Blemish-prone skin is fine; broken-out skin is not.) This budget-friendly pick from The Ordinary balances sebum production in the skin, helping to control inflammation and oiliness. To clarify, you can still use the serum on breakouts, just not the derma-roller.
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Skin Concern: Dullness
Dior Capture Youth Glow Booster Age-Delay Illuminating Serum
One serum we've found to be most effective when paired with a trusty derma-roller is this glow-boosting one from Dior. It does have vitamin C in it and a little alpha hydroxy acid, too, so patch-testing is paramount if you're going to try this out. It'll illuminate your complexion and bring radiance back to it, in most cases sans irritation. With that being said, AHAs and vitamin C may prove too harsh for some people, so it might not work the same way for everyone—especially when a dermarolling practice is involved.
What to Look for in Serums to Use With a Derma-Roller
- Hyaluronic Acid: It promotes hydration and plumps the skin from the inside out. When used in conjunction with glycerin, it works to replenish your skin.
- Vitamin C: Like AHAsand retinoids, vitamin C can be a bit too harsh for dermarolling. Nevertheless, it is very effective in treating dark spots and skin dullness. Look for gentler formulations that pair it with hydrating ingredients like squalane.
- Peptides: Peptides target collagen production, which helps firm the skin, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and boost overall texture and tone.
- Epidermal growth factor (EGF): This ingredient accelerates skin healing, which helps to reduce redness and irritation from micro-needling as well as sagging skin and hyperpigmentation.
Article Sources
Byrdie takes every opportunity to use high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial guidelines to learn more about how we keep our content accurate, reliable and trustworthy.
Iriarte C, Awosika O, Rengifo-Pardo M, Ehrlich A.Review of applications of microneedling in dermatology.Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2017;10:289-298. doi:10.2147/CCID.S142450
Singh A, Yadav S.Microneedling: advances and widening horizons.Indian Dermatol Online J. 2016;7(4):244-254. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.185468